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When curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. Yet, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small place earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.